ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. (KRQE) – In New Mexico, the end of summer and beginning of fall signifies the start of chile roasting season. The sweet and smoky aroma beckons New Mexicans from near and far.
Whether you like them green or red, the tradition of roasting chile is so uniquely New Mexican, it’s the state’s official scent. “Oh, people are in like, a trance because of it. Even if you’ve never tried it, people walk up like 40 feet away and they’re like, ‘What is that smell?'” shared Mago Chairez of Mago’s Farm.
Mago Chairez, a chile farmer from Hatch, says the earthy and sweet scent of the chile draws people in. “The fact that you can’t get this anywhere else. This is exclusive to just here, and the flavor, the smell, and you just got to come try it for yourself,” he says.
Chile is not only part of the state’s cuisine. It’s deeply ingrained in the identity and culture.
“I think what makes it unique is how much it brings people together. Even if you have people who come here who don’t eat chile, I think they can all collectively agree that they love the smell,” continued Chairez.
Mago and his family have been harvesting chile for over 30 years. He says it’s tough work as everything is done by hand.
For years, farmers like Mago have relied on the Rio Grande to irrigate their farms, but the warming climate has caused waterways to dry up. “Now most people down in Hatch, they’re using water from the wells rather than relying on the Rio Grande,” shared Chairez.
To ensure a successful season, Mago’s farm installed wells, and they are developing drip systems to conserve 70 percent of their water to maintain crops. He says the warming climate has even caused chiles to start ripening earlier than ever before.
“It used to happen actually in August, but we’ve been getting chile as early as July now; beginning of July,” continued Chairez.
But Mago says not to worry. Although the chiles come a little earlier, they’ll keep roasting into early November to make sure everyone gets their fill before the end of the season.
